This topic contains 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated by theacctpplcanfind 1 week, 2 days ago.
November 9, 2018 at 8:17 am #13971
It’s not in the sidebar and the search resulted in a shoe construction guide. Could someone point me in the right way? Or create a guide? The sidebar post on “A Primer to Materials” was great, and I couldn’t find a follow-up on other clothing quality/materials type of post.
I’m interested in learning how to identify quality seams, hems, material, and the like when shopping for clothes. Example pictures would be greatly appreciated! For clothing items such as: work pants/blouses, jeans/denim, leather jackets, blazers, sweaters/wool, coats, faux fur, activewear, etc.
Thanks!November 9, 2018 at 8:17 am #13972
Honestly, learn to sew. 😛 Only half kidding.
A great indicator is not scrimping on things that aren’t visible: seams, linings, the small details.
There’s no real “best” seam, because it depends heavily on the type of garment. On the typical garment, especially knits, you’re going to see [serged seams](https://i.pinimg.com/originals/6d/6c/7c/6d6c7c429eb9575e3bcdd5b2fdd3c61d.jpg), which are a quick and perfectly good way to finish a seam that doesn’t need special treatment. Look for [french seams](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/UR29yLJk9oM/hqdefault.jpg) on sheer and delicate fabrics, and [flat-felled seams](https://i.pinimg.com/originals/64/f5/db/64f5db598f094ff43e3880a59a48d7f8.jpg) or [bound/hong kong seams](https://burdastyle-assets.s3.amazonaws.com/techniques/images/000/000/075/300efea7702109e3a1e92e3f8d49d14577288b2f_original_large.jpg?1241757256) on denim and heavy fabrics that aren’t lined.
The most common and cheapest linings are polyester. It absolutely baffles my brain how many garments are made of wool or silk or linen and then lined with polyester, and then sold for like, [$1000](https://www.shopbop.com/crosby-wool-coat-sam/vp/v=1/1599723464.htm?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjq_OpZ3m3QIVjuNkCh1Nawt0EAQYAiABEgJXTfD_BwE¤cyCode=USD&extid=SE_froogle_SC_usa&cvosrc=cse.google.SAMAA30163&cvo_campaign=SB_Google_USD&ef_id=WlaKxgAAAJ-LNEsY:20181001215314:s). If you were hoping for the quality and breathability of natural materials, nope! You’ll be hard-pressed to find actually good lining material these days, viscose or acetate are about as good as it gets. I sometimes see cotton linings.
If you sew yourself you develop a good sense for the miscellaneous things that are difficult to do and indicate that a garment was designed and made with care. Things like [bound buttonholes](https://s3.amazonaws.com/threadsmagazine.s3.tauntoncloud.com/app/uploads/2017/10/11004551/welt-buttonhole.jpg), [self-covered buttons](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-X9W7A6i4Gus/UYOHG0lkKQI/AAAAAAAAOwg/DGRekgVHhbc/s1600/DSC04617.JPG), [welt pockets](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/5WXwST_hOA8/hqdefault.jpg), heirloom details like [hand faggotting](https://i.pinimg.com/originals/57/e4/78/57e478eefd6b7540c573ea0cc30e2caa.jpg) (I know, I know) and [crazy pintucks](https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/90/ba/5c/90ba5c8a2e74ce778366322b108eddf1.jpg). A [high armscyth/armhole](https://static1.squarespace.com/static/534f40dfe4b0a74166d6ca5d/t/583f16f19de4bb33ef7c37ed/1480529657807/), which gives a better fit and more range of motion but fits fewer sizes. Lining or facing in more expensive self fabric, rather than a cheaper lining material. Darts, AT ALL. It also baffles me how few darts there are *anywhere* in ready-to-wear, no matter how expensive (busty girls, it’s not your fault!).
Anyway this was kind of a brain dump lol. If there’s any specific type of garment you’re wondering about, I’d love to answer questions.November 9, 2018 at 8:17 am #13973
I like Anuschka Ree’s [How to assess the quality of garments – Beginner’s Guide](https://anuschkarees.com/blog/2014/05/01/how-to-assess-the-quality-of-garments-a-beginners-guide-part-i). [Part II](https://anuschkarees.com/blog/2014/05/04/how-to-assess-the-quality-of-garments-a-beginners-guide-part-ii/) focuses on construction whereas Part I is about fabrics.
She also has a handy [cheat sheet](https://anuschkarees.com/blog/2014/05/04/how-to-assess-the-quality-of-garments-a-beginners-guide-cheat-sheet) that you can refer to.November 9, 2018 at 8:17 am #13974
The other comments are all great advice so I’m not going to repeat it! One thing I am going to add since I haven’t seen it mentioned yet: stripes/plaids/prints that are matched/aligned [at the seams](http://www.sewcountrychick.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/matchstripes.jpg). Nothing looks cheaper than [mismatched prints](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-I8BzE5ptWSU/TqTX53f5XQI/AAAAAAAAAzs/0JCZf2pyrD8/s1600/Ys-for-Men-Yohji-Yamamoto-Plaid-Blazer.jpg) in my opinion! I’ve even seen this on expensive, mid-high end brands. No, I will not pay nearly $300 for a skirt which has mismatched stripes at the side seam (I’m looking at you, Cue!).November 9, 2018 at 8:17 am #13975
This is a really good guide written by a seamstress. I use it for everything and it has never led me wrong.November 9, 2018 at 8:17 am #13976
Justine Leconte did [a couple videos](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6a5lHAHf0Zk&list=PL9e2viG3AuRMF0r52atBmWDrnsY3AZSsy) on how to recognize poor quality in clothes.November 9, 2018 at 8:17 am #13977
I would go to your local shop that sells fabrics and feel the silk and other food fabrics for a start. Notice prices. While brands are not paying these prices they represent what is being paid. At the very least, someone should know by site and feel what fabrics are like. If something is made of or lined with something cheap, chances are it was made in a factory with low cost and is also cut poorlyNovember 9, 2018 at 8:17 am #13978
I hope this helps :
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